Masuichi Kyakuden

Obuse, the town of Hokusai and chestnuts, is known for its beautiful streetscape that feels almost like a theme park. We arrived a little early by car, so we visited Gansho-in Temple and Jokoji Temple before heading to Masuichi Kyakuden. The ceiling painting at Gansho-in—Katsushika Hokusai’s “Phoenix Glancing in All Directions”—was truly breathtaking. As soon as we pulled up in front of Masuichi Kyakuden, a staff member came right out and efficiently carried our luggage inside. The highly sought-after “Chestnut Dessert Suzaku,” which is notoriously difficult to secure, will be offered from 9/10 this year. Because guests staying at Masuichi Kyakuden receive priority guaranteed access, it becomes even harder to make an Accommodation Reservation for stays from 9/10 onward. Since our stay was before then, making a Reservation was easy. Stepping inside Masuichi Kyakuden, you’re immediately enveloped by the stately atmosphere of the kura storehouse building. Our Room was on the second floor; we chose the Relax Twin style. Despite being in a kura-style structure, it also has a terrace, with plenty of natural light and an open feel. There are also more traditional, calmer kura-style Rooms available; however, we were told they are designed with high ceilings to avoid any sense of confinement. Designed by architect John Morford, the Room is fully Western-style with extensive use of stainless steel—its glass-and-stainless bath is well worth seeing. Amenities are L’Occitane; the refrigerator includes complimentary drinks; plus coffee and tea—everything you’d expect from a high-end Ryokan-style stay is provided, making the Room very comfortable. For dinner, we walked about three minutes to Obusedo Honten (part of the same Masuichi group). Every dish showcased the head chef’s experience and refined sensibility. The soup course, simmered dishes, and grilled items had a Kyoto kaiseki influence—above all else, the dashi was exceptional. The sashimi was fresh and perfectly seasoned as well. Local ingredients were used throughout for very high satisfaction overall. One note: the first items served—lightly dressed Kurakake beans and Matsumae-zuke—are not part of the course menu itself (just so you know). They’re clearly intended as snacks with alcohol—especially sake brewed by Masuichi Ichimura Sake Brewery within the same group—and both paired beautifully with their sake: firm Kurakake beans soaked in elegant dashi alongside Matsumae-zuke packed with rich seafood umami made each sip even better than before. In autumn Obuse becomes all about chestnuts; while we couldn’t try “Chestnut Dessert Suzaku,” we did get to enjoy “Mont Blanc Suzaku,” a Western-inspired take on Suzaku. It’s available at their affiliated shop “Entotsu.” We nearly gave up due to long lines but learned that overnight guests can make Reservations—so we were able to enjoy it without waiting. If you stay at Masuichi Kyakuden, be sure to indulge in one of their “Suzaku”-style chestnut sweets if you can. Overall it was an outstanding stay—we thoroughly enjoyed Obuse from start to finish.

Although it is not an Onsen, we were able to relax and rest in a calm atmosphere. The breakfast was also delicious, and we were very satisfied. Chilled drinks in the refrigerator are also free of charge.