Masuichi Kyakuden

Obuse, the town of Hokusai and chestnuts, is known for its beautiful streetscape that feels almost like a theme park. We arrived a little early by car, so we visited Gansho-in Temple and Jokoji Temple before heading to Masuichi Kyakuden. The ceiling painting at Gansho-in—Katsushika Hokusai’s “Phoenix Glancing in All Directions”—was truly breathtaking. As soon as we pulled up in front of Masuichi Kyakuden, a staff member came right out and promptly carried our luggage inside. The hugely popular and notoriously hard-to-book “Chestnut Dessert Suzaku” will be available from 9/10 this year; since guests staying at Masuichi Kyakuden receive priority guaranteed access, Reservations for the Accommodation also become difficult after 9/10. Because we stayed before then, it was easy to secure our stay. Stepping inside Masuichi Kyakuden, you’re immediately enveloped by the stately atmosphere of the kura storehouse building. Our Room was on the second floor—we chose the relaxing twin—and despite being in a kura-style structure, it even has a terrace with plenty of sunlight, making it bright and open. We were told there are other Rooms with an even calmer, more traditional kura feel; however, all are designed with high ceilings to avoid any sense of confinement. Designed by architect John Morford, the Room is fully Western-style with extensive use of stainless steel; the glass-and-stainless bath is well worth seeing. Amenities are L’Occitane, there are complimentary drinks in the refrigerator along with coffee and tea—everything you’d expect from a high-end Ryokan—and overall the Room is very comfortable. For dinner, we walked about three minutes to Obusedo Main Store (part of the same Masuichi group). Every dish showcased the chef’s experience and refined sensibility. The soup course, simmered dishes, and grilled items had a Kyoto kaiseki influence—above all else, the dashi was exceptional. The sashimi was fresh and perfectly seasoned as well. They also made good use of local ingredients throughout, which made for a highly satisfying meal. Note that the first dishes served—blanched Kurakake beans and Matsumae-zuke—are not part of the course menu (just so you know). They’re clearly meant as snacks for alcohol—especially sake brewed by Masuichi Ichimura Sake Brewery within the same group—and they pair beautifully: firm Kurakake beans soaked in elegant dashi alongside Matsumae-zuke packed with seafood umami go perfectly with slowly sipped Masuichi sake. In autumn Obuse becomes all about chestnuts; while we couldn’t try “Chestnut Dessert Suzaku,” we did get to enjoy “Mont Blanc Suzaku,” a Western-style take on Suzaku. It’s available at their affiliated shop “Entotsu,” but just when we were about to give up due to long lines, we learned that overnight guests can make Reservations—so we were able to enjoy it without waiting. If you stay at Masuichi Kyakuden, be sure to treat yourself to one of their chestnut sweets featuring “Suzaku.” Overall it was an excellent stay—we thoroughly enjoyed Obuse.

Although it is not an Onsen, we were able to relax and rest in a calm atmosphere. The breakfast was also delicious, and we were very satisfied. Chilled drinks in the refrigerator are also free of charge.