Lead Onsen Fujisan Ryokan

It was my first time in Hanamaki, a town that brings to mind Kenji Miyazawa and Shohei Ohtani. I arrived in just under an hour by shuttle bus from Shin-Hanamaki Station. This is a wonderful Ryokan with the nostalgic charm of the Showa era, exactly as I had imagined. I arrived after 4:00 p.m., and since dinner started at 5:30 p.m., I hurried to the Onsen. First was “Katsura-no-Yu.” After washing, I headed to the open-air bath. Watching my step, I made my way down to the lower bath and soaked slowly while looking out over the mountain stream—pure bliss. After a short break, I tried “Hakuen-no-Yu,” the most famous standing bath here. For me, the water at “Hakuen-no-Yu” felt softer. Dinner was very lavish; we also added sea bream and crab shabu-shabu. Everything tasted excellent, and I enjoyed every last bite. After that—and again the next morning—I soaked in the Onsen about three more times in total; it truly was an Onsen-filled stay. My favorites were “Hakuen-no-Yu” for its soft water and the open-air bath at “Katsura-no-Yu,” where you can relax while gazing at the stream. The Onsen was so good that I even made a Reservation for November on my way home. Next time, I plan to stay at “Jusangatsu.”

When I was younger, I could never work up the courage to enter the mixed-gender standing Onsen. Late at night and early in the morning, I would peek down from above again and again, only to think, “Ah… there are men in there…” and reluctantly give up. Now that women-only hours have been introduced, I was finally able to enjoy it this time.I also tried all three of the other baths. Even the showers fed directly by the hot spring source carried a sulfur scent—an authentic Onsen experience!The building still retains the nostalgic atmosphere I remembered, while facilities such as the toilets have been updated. It made for a truly pleasant return stay at Namari Onsen after 30 years.