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에도 후기부터 이어져 온 대정원과 수키야 건축의 "정옥일여"가 아름다운 숙소

During my Kyushu trip in mid-June, I stayed for a Multiple Night Stay (2 nights) in the “Chikurintei—Panoramic Open-Air Bath (Japanese-Western Room)” nestled within Mifuneyama Rakuen’s vast grounds. I stayed in the “Yamazakura” Room, which offered views of Mt. Mifune from the corridor and garden, and even had a private gate with direct access to Mifuneyama Rakuen. The open-air bath is a standing-style bath set among trees. It creates a unique floating sensation, and because the water pressure is applied evenly over the whole body, I felt less fatigue afterward. Being able to enjoy the garden and sky while standing also adds to the wonderful sense of openness. The Onsen water is clear and colorless—an alkaline simple spring—with an exceptionally gentle feel on the skin, so I never tired of soaking. The indoor bath is heated groundwater, but I also enjoyed it: the hinoki tub was very comfortable, and it didn’t take long to fill. What stood out most was the outstanding quality of dinner. The kaiseki course featuring seasonal local ingredients such as Takezaki crab immediately draws you in with its dashi—clear yet deeply flavorful, beautifully balanced. Each dish reflected the season in both taste and presentation: refined and truly beautiful. Beyond ingredient quality alone, there was a confident simplicity backed by real skill. Even on a Multiple Night Stay, every meal was flawless at an exceptional level. Simply superb—thank you for such a feast. Another highlight was visiting teamLab’s art installations at the affiliated Mifuneyama Rakuen Hotel on the same grounds (guests of Chikurintei can enter free). From the moment you step into the lobby, you’re struck by countless lamps evoking forest flowers and sunlight filtering through trees. The most breathtaking work was “Megalis in Ruins Bathhouse,” where digital projections of seasonal flowers illuminate massive stones rising throughout an abandoned public-bath space. When we visited, different scenes cycled continuously—twelve distinct visuals representing all months—and we became fully immersed for about an hour until they completed one full round late at night before closing. Also worth mentioning: the cold-brew coffee served in the lounge area was delicious—I refilled it many times and enjoyed it back in my Room as well. To everyone at “Oyado Chikurintei,” thank you sincerely for creating such a wonderful stay. I will absolutely return when I visit Takeo Onsen again.

MONO ロンドン 2026. 8. 23.
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